Vincenzo Mercurio: “Making wine with knowledge is not enough, it takes passion and love.”
Written by Davide Gangi | Published in Interview, wine 
Vincenzo Mercurio, with 25 years of experience, has dedicated his career to the art of winemaking. He began his educational journey in Italy, graduating in Food Preparation Sciences. Later, he decided to deepen his knowledge by specializing in Viticulture and Oenology, ultimately obtaining a first-class degree in Viticulture and Oenology.
He spent a year in France, a country renowned for its winemaking tradition, to further enrich his education. He also attended refresher courses at the prestigious universities of Bordeaux and Dijon, learning from the best experts in the field.
His philosophy of winemaking is based on the belief that protocols should be personalized, just like a tailored suit. Wines produced with his method always have a strong personality and identity. He sees wine as a painting, considering each vineyard as a unique palette of colors, transforming each vine’s differences into authentic works of art.
In his consulting activity, he shares with producers the most important and delicate moments of creating a great wine, from the vineyard to the cellar. He works with several wineries throughout Italy, mainly in the regions of Campania, Lazio, Basilicata, Calabria, Molise, Puglia, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Tuscany, Veneto, Sardinia, Umbria, and Sicily.
His dedication and passion for wine are reflected in every bottle, creating wines that tell their origins and convey the essence of the territories from which they come.
Your first passion for food preparation sciences led you to graduate in this field. Did you want to become a nutritionist or something else?
I’ve always had an attraction to nature, particularly agriculture. In the historic Faculty of Agriculture in Portici, a new program dedicated to the transformation of agricultural products into food products had recently been established. I was fascinated by the world of research, especially the sensory analysis aspect, which characterizes foods and investigates consumer preferences. It was a five-year degree program, with a lot of chemistry, microbiology, and sensory analysis. I developed a particular interest in nutrition and food safety sciences, but my true passion has always been applied research and the possibility of innovating in food technology. I would undoubtedly do it again, as it gave me a solid scientific and technical foundation that has been very useful throughout my career.
What events have shaped the course of your life, and what made you specialize in viticulture and oenology, culminating in a degree in viticulture and oenology?
Wine, professionally speaking, suddenly came into my life without warning and has earned a permanent place in my heart. I can’t imagine any other job because wine embodies many of my passions: science, botany, biology, music, photography, and travel. Every bottle of wine represents a story, a territory, a blend of knowledge and traditions that come together to create something unique. This passion led me to continue studying, first with a post-graduate specialization, and then with a second degree in Viticulture and Oenology. My current studies are highly focused on viticulture, and in 2020 I passed the state exam at the University of Milan for qualification as an agronomist. This path allowed me to deepen my knowledge of vine cultivation and wine production, enabling me to develop a holistic and integrated approach to viticulture and oenology.
What is your philosophy of oenology?
To make great wines, it is necessary to cultivate the vineyard in a live and healthy soil, and seek balances to fully express the viticultural potential. The vineyard is our resource reservoir from which we can draw the most important oenological “products.” Oenological products have allowed us to raise average quality, making entire territories more competitive, but we risk a drift in which interventionism becomes compulsive and excessive. We need to return to a balance in which the grapes and the territories speak for themselves. I strongly believe in enhancing terroir, which represents the interaction between soil, climate, grape variety, and winemaking practices. Only through careful and respectful management of the vineyard and winemaking process can we produce wines that are authentic expressions of their origin, capable of telling a story and evoking emotions in those who taste them.
You have stated that in your winemaking, you minimize technological impact but are often forced to use biotechnological industry yeasts. How do you ensure that these systems do not affect the terroir and, consequently, the wine’s quality?
The yeasts available on the market are the result of selection in various parts of the world, and they are extremely pure and efficient, very useful for fermentation processes and ensuring correct fermentation kinetics. I would also add that they are indispensable for most winemaking processes. I believe it’s important not to create fermentation aromas that overpower the varietal aroma, to the point where a wine could end up too similar to another produced far away with a different grape variety. To preserve the identity of the territory, it is necessary to work correctly in the cellar, using biotechnology in service of the territorial quality, not the other way around. Products authorized by the European community for the food sector, including those for winemaking, are safe and tested, mostly made from natural raw materials, with very few “foreign” molecules. Using selected yeasts doesn’t mean betraying the terroir; rather, it ensures safe and controlled fermentation, avoiding deviations that could compromise the wine’s quality. The use of these yeasts allows us to enhance the intrinsic characteristics of the grapes and preserve the wine’s typicity, while maintaining high standards of safety and quality.
With Professor Giancarlo Moschetti (UniPa), you created the Me.Mo. method. What is it based on?
Me.Mo, an acronym for Mercurio and Moschetti, is also a MeMo, like a memorandum. What should we remember? That working in harmony with nature is the foundation for producing “human” wines. Our method involves a first phase where the grower must become aware of the micro-world of their vineyard (insects, birds, mammals, reptiles, bacteria, fungi, yeasts, nematodes), understanding what balance can be achieved. The next step is the transformation of these grapes with local yeasts to produce wines that are very characterized and, above all, true to the territory. Wines made using the Me.Mo method are often characterized by a minimal use of additives. The prototype is the 2Vite wine, made with Aglianico and Piedirosso. The Me.Mo method is based on the idea that each vineyard is a unique ecosystem, and that only by understanding and respecting this natural balance can we produce wines that are authentic and representative of their territory. The choice to use local yeasts enhances the specific microbiological characteristics of the vineyard, giving the wines greater complexity and typicity. This integrated and sustainable approach to viticulture and winemaking represents both a challenge and a great opportunity to create wines that are truly expressions of their terroir.
In which territory and with what type of wine do you feel most comfortable working, considering that every oenologist, like many other professionals, develops a specific passion and attitude in creating projects, services, or products?
I work with several grape varieties every year, and I prefer those that are clearly adapted to a specific territory: indigenous varieties. I could name several, but I think it’s fair to start with my region, Campania. I can say that Greco di Tufo, Fiano di Avellino, and Falanghina in recent years represent a trio that I feel connected to. I have a certain feeling with them, maybe because they are great varieties, or maybe because I encountered them in 1998 starting with my thesis. Every grape variety has its own story and character, and working with indigenous varieties allows me to explore the richness and diversity of our viticultural heritage. I feel particularly at ease working with these varieties because they represent the roots of our winemaking tradition and offer endless opportunities for expression and innovation. Each harvest is a new challenge and a new opportunity to discover something new and create wines that are unique and inimitable.
What are the key elements or practices that an experienced oenologist like you considers essential to ensure that the creation of a wine can aspire to become an excellence recognized and appreciated in the industry?
Science and art. By working on these two pillars, I believe one can produce a great wine. Making wine with knowledge is not enough; you also need passion and love. Scientific knowledge is essential to understand the processes that occur in the vineyard and cellar and to control and optimize them. But without passion and love for the work, it is difficult to achieve excellence. Passion is what drives us to always seek the best, to never settle, and to put our heart into every phase of production. Love for wine, the vineyard, and the territory is what allows us to create wines that are authentic, emotional, and able to tell a story. It is also essential to have a holistic and integrated approach to viticulture and oenology that considers not only the technical and scientific aspects but also the human, cultural, and environmental ones. Only in this way can we create wines that are true excellences recognized and appreciated in the industry.
You were recently awarded the title of corresponding academic at the Italian Academy of Wine and Vine, and you have received prestigious awards from Civiltà del Bere in 2018, from the Merano Wine Festival in 2021, from Bibenda in 2022, and from the Rotary Club of Castellammare di Stabia in the same year. However, is there something else you would like to add to your collection of achievements?
I am very grateful to those who have chosen to award me through various recognitions. There are many that represent an important certificate of esteem for me, which is always needed. Every single recognition has always been shared with my family and collaborators. However, I don’t seek recognition just for the sake of collecting them but because they represent the tangible sign of work done with passion, dedication, and professionalism. Every award is an encouragement to do even better and continue pursuing excellence. If I were to add something to my collection of achievements, I would like it to be recognition of my commitment to promoting sustainability and innovation in the wine industry, contributing to creating a better future for our land and future generations. Also, I would like to continue collaborating with young oenologists and viticulturists, sharing my knowledge and passion, and helping them grow and realize their dreams.
What territory would you like to explore and where would you like to work to create a great wine?
Wherever there is true passion and great professionalism. Every territory has its charm and peculiarities, and I like the idea of being able to explore and discover new wine realities. I would love to work in regions with a long winemaking tradition, but also in emerging areas where there are still many untapped potentials. For example, I am fascinated by volcanic lands, with their mineral-rich soils and unique climate, which can produce wines with great character and complexity. At the same time, I would like to explore lesser-known territories where indigenous varieties are still underappreciated but hold great quality potential. My curiosity and desire to learn push me to always seek new challenges and opportunities, and I believe every territory can offer unique and irreplaceable insights for creating great wines.
What would you like us to wish for you?
To continue my path with the same passion that has accompanied me from the very beginning. Passion is the engine of everything, and without it, it would not be possible to face the challenges and difficulties that inevitably arise along the way. Wish me to always keep my curiosity and desire to learn alive, to continue growing and improving, and to be able to share my passion with others, contributing to spreading the culture of wine and enhancing our viticultural heritage. Also, wish me to continue working in harmony with nature, respecting the environment and people, and to create wines that are authentic expressions of their territory and that can evoke emotions in those who taste them. Finally, wish me to continue collaborating with passionate and competent people, with whom I can share ideas, projects, and successes, and to pass on my experience and passion to new generations of oenologists and viticulturists.
Related posts
Cantina Santadi: the Sulcis region that found its voice in…
In the deep southwest of Sardinia, where the mistral wind is not just wind but character, and the sea...
Cirelli Wines: the brave choice of an engineer who gave…
I’ve known Francesco Cirelli since the very beginning of his company. I discovered him during a wine tasting evening...
Pagano Farm: Angelo Pagano’s vision in the heart of Falerno…
Within the Italian wine scene, there are areas that possess an ancient and extraordinary vocation, ready to reemerge when...