The Tuscan Archipelago and its wines

The Tuscan Archipelago is made up of seven main islands: Elba, Capraia, Giglio, Montecristo, Pianosa, Giannutri, and Gorgona. Some of these islands have a historic tradition of viticulture, which still produces small yet highly interesting wines today. The most important islands from an oenological perspective are Elba, Giglio, Capraia, and Gorgona. The archipelago enjoys a typical Mediterranean climate, with hot, dry summers, mitigated only by the constant sea breeze. The soils are mainly stony, quite poor, and often difficult to work, especially on the smaller, more rugged islands.

Elba Island is the largest in the archipelago and also the one with the most varied terrain, ranging from the eastern area of Rio Marina, rich in iron deposits, to the summit of Monte Capanne, which at over 1000 meters dominates the western part of the island. Vine cultivation dates back to the time of the early Etruscan settlements, who had already discovered Elba’s mineral wealth, and later during the Roman colonization. The tradition of viticulture remained alive until the devastation caused by phylloxera, which destroyed almost all of Europe’s vineyards. The slow recovery was then further hindered by the rise of tourism after World War II, which led to the abandonment of lands, especially those with vineyards in the more rugged and steep areas. Today, the island has about 300 hectares of vineyards, mostly in the flatter areas. The historic grape varieties of the region are still cultivated: Trebbiano Toscano or Procanico, Ansonica, Vermentino, Moscato, and Biancone for white grapes; Aleatico and Sangiovese for red grapes. However, there are also some plots of Ciliegiolo, Canaiolo, and Colorino, as well as international varieties: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah.

The viticulture of Giglio Island had a similar trajectory to that of Elba, but with almost total abandonment in favor of tourism, given the difficulty of cultivating vines on the island’s steep slopes. As evidence of the past, the remains of the old wine presses from the 16th to 18th centuries still remain. In recent decades, some small producers have reclaimed and restored the old terraced vineyards supported by dry stone walls, overlooking the sea. Today, Ansonica production stands out for its aromatic intensity and richness. It is a sunny and harmonious wine, produced in a limited number of bottles, but of remarkable quality.

Until 1986, Capraia Island hosted an agricultural penal colony. The prisoners lived outdoors, dedicating themselves to animal husbandry and land cultivation. In recent years, some winemakers have reclaimed the old terraced vineyards in this wild and unspoiled environment. A few hectares are cultivated with Aleatico, Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo, Vermentino, and Ansonica. This heroic viticulture produces some excellent quality labels.

Finally, Gorgona Island hosts an interesting and commendable project that the Frescobaldi winery started in 2012 in collaboration with the Island’s Penal Institute. The prisoners, with the guidance of Frescobaldi agronomists and oenologists, cultivate vineyards and produce wine on the island. It’s a way for them to learn a craft that will be very useful when they regain their freedom.

There are two labels, a white and a red, both absolutely worth trying.

Main Wineries:

Isola d’Elba

Azienda AgricolaArrighi

Tenuta Acquabona

Tenuta La Chiusa

La Fazenda

Cantina Mazzarri

Fattoria Delle Ripalte

Isola del Giglio

Altura

Castellari

Bibi Graetz

Cantina Scarfò

Fontuccia

Le Greppe

Isola Capraia

La Piana

La Mursa

Isola Gorgona

Tenuta Frescobaldi