History repeats itself: the wines of Vesuvius, the most famous volcano in the world
Written by Chiara Giorleo | Published in territory 
Despite the depth of its historical roots – both in terms of production and commercial aspects, as evidenced by findings in more and less well-known excavations – the production surrounding the famous Neapolitan volcano demands an update.
It is indeed thanks to the current Consortium that there has been an internal reorganization, starting with the revision of the regulations that considered the two very different white grape varieties, Caprettone and Coda di Volpe, as interchangeable.
Let’s go step by step: we are in Campania, in the heart of the Gulf of Naples. Given the latitude and proximity to the sea, it is easy to imagine the Mediterranean climate; however, it is well moderated by the altitude provided by the volcano itself. That’s not all, because upon closer inspection of the Gulf, we notice two peaks: Vesuvius and Monte Somma. Both formed the original structure of the volcano, but the numerous volcanic activities over the centuries caused its splitting. The production of Vesuvio DOC wines takes place on both peaks, and the conditions are not the same: Vesuvius is closer to the sea, with milder conditions and almost exclusively volcanic soil; Monte Somma, more inland, is cooler – due to the influence of the Apennine breezes – and the soil is enriched with clay. Crucially, in both cases, the stratification caused by eruptions over the centuries is important. Therefore, about 90% of the vines are ungrafted, allowing for a complete integration of the plants.
Additionally, it is worth noting that the vineyards are planted in a circular pattern on both peaks, with the side facing the sea exposed to the mild marine breezes and the side facing inland to the cooler conditions, on both promontories.
Caprettone or Catalanesca for whites, and Piedirosso for rosé and red wines, are the undisputed protagonists. Fresh and savory, the Caprettone white, with its neutrality, serves as the perfect vehicle for a volcanic territory so characterized. The Catalanesca white, found only on Monte Somma, is richer, with aromas of more mature fruit, as the denomination Catalanesca del Monte Somma IGT tells us. This grape was briefly registered as a “table grape” in the 20th century, rather than as a wine grape as it deserves.
If well-managed – considering the many challenges both in the vineyard and in the cellar – Piedirosso can produce rosé and red wines with personality: pale and lively in color, with an attractive nose of small red fruits and integrated vegetal notes, often accompanied by darker, pungent sensations, resulting in a balanced and refreshing taste with no aggressive tannins.
These grapes are complemented by small percentages of rarer local varieties or more popular regional varieties, such as Aglianico for reds (the perfect partner: more powerful and colorful), as well as Falanghina, Coda di Volpe, or Greco for whites. These latter varieties form the blends allowed by the regulations for Vesuvio DOP wines (or Vesuvio Lacryma Christi DOP if the legend is added: these vines grow from the tears of Christ wounded by the betrayal and theft of a piece of Heaven by Lucifer). Alternatively, they may contribute to the list of single-varietals (in this case, the variety is listed on the label alongside the denomination).
The volcanic soul does not only fill the storytelling – although fascinating – but characterizes a taste and olfactory experience with salty, almondy tones, at times fragrant, and even deep in the more evolved expressions or reserves.
Related posts
Adolfo Scuotto: the “guy” who chose wine as his language
Every region has its interpreters, and Irpinia has found a unique narrator in Adolfo Scuotto, who has chosen wine...
Laura De Vito: Lapio’s Fiano wine combines elegance, terroir, and…
In the great mosaic of Italian wine, there are areas that, more than others, manage to transform a grape...
Campania: A Land of Great Wines
The 2023 edition of Campania Stories celebrated one of the most suitable areas of the Campania region, Irpinia, which...