Cerasuolo di Vittoria: history, territory, and uniqueness
Written by Fabio Cristaldi | Published in tastings, wine 
Cerasuolo di Vittoria is (as of now) the only DOCG in Sicily. A wine composed of Nero d’Avola (the regulations allow a percentage ranging from 50% to 70%) and Frappato (naturally making up the remaining 50% to 30%), though it is difficult for the percentages to be exact since they come from “maritate” vineyards, meaning mixed plantings of Nero d’Avola and Frappato. The two grape varieties complement each other: Nero d’Avola is tannic, with good freshness and strong personality, providing good alcohol content, while Frappato is fruity, with hints of spices, delicate tannins, and great versatility. A wine that lends itself to both wood and steel aging, with great adaptability to pair with more or less structured dishes, Cerasuolo di Vittoria is the DOCG whose production area extends across three Sicilian provinces: Ragusa, Caltanissetta, and Catania. This gives the wine an interaction with the various variables that make up the terroir. Different altitudes and diverse territories characterize Cerasuolo di Vittoria. It was established as a DOC in 1973 and later achieved DOCG status in 2005. Its name derives from its cherry-like (cerasuolo) color. Despite being the Sicilian wine with the highest recognition, upon simply hearing the name “Cerasuolo,” most consumers immediately think of Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo (a rosé wine made from Montepulciano d’Abruzzo).
Just to further highlight its potential, Le Strade del Cerasuolo di Vittoria and the Regional Wine Shop of the southwest organized a masterclass featuring several Cerasuolo di Vittoria wines from different provinces, aiming to showcase the various (if not infinite) characteristics and uniqueness of each Cerasuolo di Vittoria. Five wines were tasted: one produced with grapes from vineyards in the province of Caltanissetta, one whose vineyards are located in the province of Catania, and three produced with grapes from vineyards in Ragusa.
Catalano Viticoltori has its vineyards in the Gela (CL) area, in hilly terrain. The Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2022 DOCG from Catalano Viticoltori is made with equal parts, 50% Nero d’Avola and 50% Frappato. It expresses a fruity note that highlights licorice and hints of spices, closing with a slight touch of sealing wax. Vertical on the palate, with a good correspondence between taste and smell. Fine tannic texture. Fair persistence. The company’s vineyards are spread between the territories of Gela and Butera, in hilly areas.
From the province of Caltanissetta, we move to the province of Ragusa, to the Acate territory, where Valle dell’Acate is based and has its vineyards. The Vigna di Biddine Soprana 2021 Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG is tasted, composed of 60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Frappato. A complex and varied bouquet, fruity, spicy, with a vanilla note given by the barrel aging. A deep and intense aromatic profile. Hard and soft components are well blended, making the sip harmonious and pleasant. Good persistence. The company has seventy hectares of vineyards from which it produces various wines (both white and red), and with years of experience gained over the decades, it has now become a cornerstone and a reference point.
In Caltagirone (province of Catania), Tenuta Valle delle Ferle is based. The Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2018 DOCG from Tenuta Valle delle Ferle is made of 50% Nero d’Avola and 50% Frappato, aged in steel, and expresses an aromatic profile that differs from the first two. Its aromatic bouquet is composed of cardamom, coriander, and star anise. A sip with personality, with a freshness that makes the wine vertical, agile, and vibrant. Long and fine tannins. Good persistence. The fact that the vineyards are at a higher altitude compared to those of the other companies, besides being in a different territory, allows Tenuta Valle delle Ferle’s wine to have different characteristics from the others.
From Vinanti, the Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG 2017 is tasted. The company’s vineyards are in Chiaramonte Gulfi (RG), an area higher in altitude than Acate, so vintage, climatic conditions, and the percentages of Nero d’Avola and Frappato result in a wine with different characteristics. The bouquet is highly complex, with tertiary aromas, hints of gunpowder, notes of pepper, and blood orange. Fresh on the palate, with tannins that recall the nose. Long.
Si conclude con il Barocco 2018 Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG dell’azienda Avide. La percentuale di Nero d’Avola tocca il massimo consentito dal disciplinare (70%), con un saldo del 30% di Frappato. Il frutto della ciliegia è chiaro e nitido, nota di carruba e di fave di cacao. Sorso di spessore e di grande pienezza che riesce a dare freschezza ed a sua volta verticalità e tannini fini e lunghi. La retrolfattiva conferma il passaggio in legno (affina in barrique). Persistenza ottima.
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