Volcanic Wines
Written by Fabio Cristaldi | Published in tastings, territory 
Talking about volcanic wines means exploring vineyards located in areas influenced by active or extinct volcanoes. While this concept may seem straightforward, a deeper dive reveals intriguing factors that are often overlooked or misinterpreted.
The Unique Terroirs of Volcanic Wines
The defining element of volcanic wines is the soil, which is shaped by the nature of the volcano itself. Different types of magma—whether basic or acidic—result in distinct soil compositions that directly impact vine growth and grape characteristics. The terroir’s composition, combined with climate variations and local grape varieties, creates wines that reflect their unique volcanic origin.
A common thread among volcanic wines is their elegance, salinity (ranging from subtle to pronounced), and complexity. Volcanic soils compel vine roots to grow deep in search of water and softer layers, absorbing rich minerals such as silica and iron, which are then transferred to the grapes.
Italy boasts 58 active or potentially active volcanoes, from north to south, making volcanic wines an integral part of many regions beyond the well-known examples of Campania and Sicily. Recognizing this diversity, the A.I.S. Jonico – Etnea hosted a masterclass featuring 14 volcanic wines from Sicily, Campania, Lazio, Tuscany, Veneto, Trentino, and Piedmont.
Exploring Italy’s Volcanic Wines
Sicilian wines are known for their verticality, with characteristics such as tannins, salinity, and freshness depending on vintage and wine type.
- Contrada Volpare Etna Bianco Superiore 2022 Maugeri – Fruity and floral notes, citrus hints, and light sorb apple aromas. Fresh, agile, and crisp, with a long and slightly saline finish.
- Salina Malvasia I. G. T. Bianco V 2022 Eolia – Herbal aromas with prominent sage, followed by delicate floral hints. Balanced freshness with a subtle iodine note on the finish.
- Bianco di Nuna Etna Bianco D. O. C. 2018 Terre di Nuna – Chalky minerality, exotic fruit, pineapple, light smoky notes. High acidity with great depth and persistence.
- San Lorenzo Etna Rosso D. O. C. 2016 Girolamo Russo – Flint, balsamic hints, wild berries, carob, and licorice. Saline and mineral-driven with fine tannins and good persistence.
- Extra Brut Metodo Classico 2010 Murgo – Fine and persistent perlage, aromas of bread crust, sultanas, and iodine. Fresh and sapid, with a dynamic and refreshing finish.
Other places
Veneto’s Volcanic Wines
- Col di Mezzo Gambellara Classico D. O. C. 2019 Tenuta Natalina Grandi – Exotic fruit, tobacco, and light hydrocarbon notes. Well-structured with vibrant freshness and remarkable progression.
- Nera Riserva Brut Lessini Durello Metodo Classico D. O. C. 2014 Fongaro – Fine perlage, complex bouquet with bread crust, pistachio, and exotic fruit. Vertical, expanding, and persistent on the palate.
- La Froscà Soave Classico D. O. C. 2009 Gini – Aromas of sultanas, flint, and exotic fruit. Elegant, full-bodied, and well-structured, with remarkable length and finesse.
- Fior d’arancio Passito D. O. C. G. Colli Euganei 2009 Zanovello – A harmonious blend of fruit and floral notes, caramelized orange peel, and light oxidative hints. Sweet but fresh, with excellent drinkability.
Campanian Volcanic Wines
- Lacrymabianco Lacryma Cristi D. O. P. 2017 Cantine Olivella – Delicate yet broad bouquet with hints of herbs and dried fruit. Full-bodied with pleasant freshness.
Lazio’s Volcanic Wines
- Poggio della Costa Grechetto di Civitelle d’Agliano I. G. T 2012 Sergio Mottura – Rich and persistent aromas of hydrocarbons, dried herbs, and hay. Even after 11 years, its acidity remains lively and well-integrated.
Tuscan Volcanic Wines
- San Lorenzo Ciliegiolo Maremma Toscana D. O. C. 2015 Sassotondo – Fruity with flinty notes and jammy nuances. Full and round, with a notable acidic backbone and a slightly bitter tannic finish that adds complexity.
Piedmont’s Volcanic Wines
- Boca D. O. C. 2013 Barbaglia – Earthy aromas of humus, wet soil, orange peel, cardamom, and redcurrants. Crisp acidity and firm tannins, with excellent persistence.
Trentino’s Volcanic Wines
- Riesling Renano D. O. C. Trentino 2020 Alfio Nicolodi – Classic Riesling aromas with light hydrocarbon and dried herb notes, complemented by green pineapple. A strong acidic backbone provides length and structure.
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